The Museum of Art and Archaeology organized a tour for docents to Arrow Rock (population 50) named one of America’s Dozen Distinctive Destination’s by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The famous 19th Century Missouri painter, George Caleb Bingham (1811-1879), lived in Arrow Rock, and we are celebrating his 200th birthday next year.
We met at a parking lot on the west side of town. We car-pooled, and although I had volunteered to drive that turned out not to be necessary. Arrow Rock is about 45 miles west of Columbia on Highway 70 and 41. It is a nice drive through green hills and woods.
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The restaurant. I am sitting at a table on the right (off camera)-
except when I took this picture. |
Once there, around noon, we ate at a charming local restaurant that opens to serve mainly tour groups.
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Remi shows a book to Arthur (off camera)
Remember you can click on any picturre to enlarge it. |
The proprietor, served the group with a choice of chicken salad and croissant sandwich or quiche accompanied by a lovely green salad, grapes and cantaloupe. Several desserts were offered, but I stopped listening after I heard peach cobbler with ice cream; that’s what everyone at our table took, except Arthur who absented himself from the table. I wondered if he was on a diet. But aren't we all.
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| Canopied bed with antique hand sewn quilt |
From the restaurant we drove to the parking lot by the Visitor Center. There we saw a half hour movie on the history of Arrow Rock that before the Civil War was a town of up to 19,000 residents (25 % were slaves). Very crowded, loud (river town) and muddy. Another half hour or more was spent listening to our tour guide answer questions. We looked at the19th Century museum exhibits…
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| Side-saddle: notice the vertical post that the lady was expected to hook her right leg over. (click to enlarge) |
Many of the residents came from Virginia and the Southeast, and tried to bring as much of that ‘civilization’ with them as possile. Beside slaves, they brought a preference for Federalist architecture and some items of luxury.
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| Decorative arrangement - tavern |
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| A solid block of tea. Tea could be shaved off as needed, or broken into small blocks and sold. |
We visited the Huston Tavern where we saw coffee containers that held coffee from Java, Rio and other places around the world. Tea from China came in solid blocks.
George Caleb Bingham’s family came from Virginia to Franklin, Missouri when he was very young. (Franklin was flooded so many times that the residents moved to higher ground, now called New Franklin.) Later the family moved to Arrow Rock, where his mother, now a widow, opened an academy for girls.
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| Academy for girls |
One of his most famous paintings is Fur Traders Descending the Missouri at the Metropolitan. His bread and butter was portrait painting, but he also painted frontier life, The Jolly Flatboatmen and Order No. 11 showing the eviction of residents from Western Missouri after the Quantrill raid of Lawrence, Kansas in 1863.
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| Docents in front of the Bighanm house. |
We toured Bingham’s Federalist style house. The upper wooden story, as well as the wood frame kitchen wing was taken off in the 1930’s when the WPA was restoring it on the mistaken assumption that it wasn’t original.
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| Antique spinning and winding wheels in the Bingham house. |
Much of the town was destroyed by two fires in the last two centuries, and other buildings were torn down in a successful attempt to make the town park like. An old church was remodeled to house the nationally known Lyceum Theater. This building has since been expanded to provide more seating.
The movie
Tom Sawyer ( 1975) was filmed in Arrow Rock.
If you want to check out some paintings by Bingham, google
George Caleb Bingham paintings.